You know a lot about absentee celebrity chefs. Now it’s time to meet the absent celebrity butcher. Yes, it’s Dario Cecchini. He’s an eighth-generation butcher with a Chianina-sized personality, and you may know him from the Netflix series. chef’s tablean entire episode is dedicated to him and a branch of his “signature steakhouse” Bottega di Carna has opened at the Mondrian Singapore Duxton.
Forget everything you know or read about Dario. Because it has nothing to do with the dining experience here. Not that that’s a bad thing, mind you. Simply put, Bottega di Carna is yet another expensive steakhouse catering to the desires of the nouveau riche bourgeoisie that infests this wealthy island. Menu items other than beef, pasta, cicchetti And the menu’s entrees demonstrate just how far its preparation deviates from Cecchini’s minimalist, meat-centered philosophy. There’s no talk of “responsible carnivorism” or “happy animals” or “nose-to-tail eating” here, and there’s certainly no evidence of such a philosophy unless you consider bavette (also known as flap or flank steak). It’s not there. This is a lesser-known cut (and a must-do!).
Instead, you get Hokkaido A5 Wagyu tenderloin, 200-day grain-fed Australian Black Angus rib roast, and 225g of USDA Prime Black Angus filet mignon (if you’re wondering if “Black Angus” is some kind of trophy breed? (Can we stop making it such a marketing-driven fetish? Please?) We source from local importers. In addition to his butcher shop in Tuscany, Dalio also has branches in the Bahamas and Dubai, which speaks volumes about the market he is targeting.
In other words, Dario’s essence is reduced to “special salt,” a salt mixed with dried Tuscan herbs, arrogantly named “Chianti scent.” And that’s a huge missed opportunity to bring a new perspective on steak to Singapore. It’s as if we don’t already have enough Japanese Wagyu beef or USDA prime steaks in circulation here.
And the other thing is, if you Google it, you’ll see that all the influencers and media were invited to review Bottega di Carna during lunch. At this time of day, the sun’s rays are probably pouring into your room, filling it with warm, soulful tones. If you go in the evening like I do, the restaurant has the gray, dim charm of a paid airport lounge.
That being said, the food itself isn’t bad, if not great. The artichoke tart is crispy and true to itself, although the microtart presentation takes a little more care. The Australian Wagyu bavette was tender and cooked to the desired medium-rare, but by no means was it a particularly noteworthy piece of meat. The special salt is pleasant, but no special salt is added for seasoning. Pro tip: Ask for a little bit of it on your side.
Similarly, while not particularly generous, the tiramisu “for two” was barely enough for one, and I had to do the Oliver Twist: “Please, I’d like some more.” Thankfully, they remained silent and treated me to another scoop from the large tray. And to the restaurant’s credit, the second drink was served on the house.
I had enough but left feeling empty. If you came here to feel Dario’s love and soul, you really have come to the wrong place. Does Dalio support flying in steaks from all over the world? Does Mr. Dalio support the idea that grain-eating animals and customers eat only selected parts of the steaks that give their lives to feed and sustain humanity? Would you agree to waste the rest of the beast? In the end, it probably doesn’t matter. Dario was paid pounds of flesh to license his name and image, and we’re all entitled to our day in the sun. Again, only if you visit Bottega di Carna during lunchtime.
Score: 12.75/20
Meal: 7/10
Service: 3.75/5
Atmosphere: 1.75/3
Magic power: 0.25/2
Bottega di Carna, The Mondrian Singapore Duxton, 16A Duxton Hill Singapore. (65) 6019 6000. The budget for dinner for two is net S$320 (approx. RM1,117), excluding drinks.
This article was first published on The Edge Malaysia on January 15, 2023.