Men’s fashion season opens at Pitti Uomo during Milan Fashion Week, Italy

The Fall/Winter 2024-25 season kicks off on Tuesday, January 9th with Italian Men’s Fashion Week. First stop is Pitti Uomo in Florence. One of the world’s leading menswear shows, this year’s theme is ‘Time’, reflected in the slogan ‘Pitti Time’. The event will feature a number of high-profile special guests and conclude on January 12th. Shortly after, Milan Fashion Week took place and ended on January 16th, with debut shows from Fendi, Gucci, Philipp Plein and Stone Island.

The 105th Pitti Uomo had nearly 832 exhibitors registered, of which 46% were from outside Italy. In comparison, there were 825 companies in June last year and 789 companies in January 2023. Noidichi, a Margaret Howell exhibition focusing on the covers of Architectural Review magazine, and a new section dedicated to the latest generation of German designers in partnership with the French men’s clothing association Promas, in particular by the labels Ouest Paris and Valette Studio. We are featuring our first presentations. Instead, one of Pitti Uomo’s most interesting recent initiatives, his S Style section, introduced in 2020 to promote a new cutting-edge sustainable international label, has been discontinued .

One of the must-see events at Pitti Uomo 105 is the show by American designer Todd Snyder, who will kick off the jamboree with his return to the runway. Snyder, who founded his eponymous label in New York in 2011 and was showing there until four years ago, is taking the opportunity to introduce Woolrich, the new premium heritage line by US label Woolrich. The Black Label by Todd Snyder collection will be announced. Snyder is currently the director. The collection will also be presented in Milan.

The next day, on Wednesday, Pitti Uomo will host Luca Mariano, who returns to Florence for a show exactly six years after debuting with his own label Mariano. Its highly personal style is influenced by various subcultures. On Thursday, January 11th, Finnish designer Achilles Ion Gabriel, Creative Director of Camper, will present the first collection of his eponymous new label. The day concludes with a show by Liverpool designer Stephen Stokey Daly, winner of the 2022 LVMH Prize. Stokey Daily specializes in sophisticated and original menswear, reinventing the codes of traditional British elegance with the SS Daily label launched in 2020.

Milan Fashion Week Men’s takes over the baton from Pitti Uomo and opens with Gucci on January 12th. The Italian luxury brand returns to his menswear calendar with the first collection designed by Sabato de Sarno. On the same day, another first will be held by Stone Island, the directional high-tech outerwear brand acquired by the Moncler Group in 2021, which promises to be a very dazzling event. Among other things, Philippe His Plain is also back on the Milan calendar. Previously, men’s wear was displayed alongside women’s wear. Fendi returned to Milan after presenting its men’s collection in Florence last June. And K-Way will be shown only in the winter.

This season, Milan has been one of June’s highlights, with Valentino (Valentino) choosing to return to Paris and Etro (deciding to focus on a new bespoke men’s tailoring project unveiled this week) They will be missing big names like . , regular menswear will be presented alongside womenswear in February. 1017 Alyx 9SM, a label by American designer Matthew M. Williams that was acquired by Hong Kong billionaire Adrian Cheng, will also leave Milan, where it has been on display since January 2022.

Three other labels were also removed from Milan’s calendar. 44 Label Group was founded by Berlin DJ-producer Max Kobosil under the guidance of businessman Claudio Antonioli. Scottish designer Charles Jeffrey’s label Loverboy is leaving Milan Fashion Week after three seasons. And Mariano is the guest of honor at this year’s Pitti Uomo.

As with last season, Milan Fashion Week Men’s will have a reduced program with 22 runway shows, including a double show by Giorgio Armani. The event will be spread out over two full and two half days, with the addition of five of his digital shows, which will be streamed on the final morning of Tuesday, January 16th. There are a total of 74 events on the calendar, 72 in June. It will include shows from top Italian brands such as Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and Zegna, as well as a number of presentations and special events.

Sunday, January 14th marks the debut of Pronounce, the Italian-Chinese menswear label launched in 2016 by Yushan Li and Jun Zhou, and currently showing in London. The presentation program includes the debut work by Domenico Orifice, Institution by Ghalib Gassanov, Latorre, Mordecai, Noskra, Rubeus Milano, Stuart Weitzman, Viapiave 33, Woolrich Black Label debut by Todd Snyder, as well as new creative director Includes the return of Philippe Models Paris below. Tuomas Merikoski.