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Friday, September 20, 2024

How to explore Italy’s lakes

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Calm and sunny, with stunning Alpine views as well as beaches, the glacial lakes of northern Italy have been popular since Roman times and are a place for families looking to enjoy the great outdoors, especially water sports, hiking, and treetop adventures. Couple fishing for romantic getaway grandmother Hotel or boutique retreat (well, if it’s good enough for George and Amal Clooney…)

Explore Maggiore with GH

Italy’s lakes are also a paradise for plant lovers, and thanks to their mild climate, there are many famous and beautiful gardens, especially around Lake Maggiore and Lake Como, which are divided into Lombardy and Piedmont and extend all the way to the Swiss border.

Is Lake Maggiore worth seeing? Should you visit its islands?

This is Italy’s second largest lake after nearby Lake Garda, and as with any large lake, it has great water sports facilities, as well as plenty of places to go mountain biking and hiking. But the most obvious are the Borromean Islands, a scattering of small islands, some of which are connected by small ferries that circulate. The ferry stops at both Isla Bella and Isla Madre, allowing you to experience and contrast their very different gardens.

Panoramic view from Cannobio on the shores of Lake Maggiore with beautiful clouds in the sky, the Piedmont region of northern Italy, the province of Berbano-Cusio-Ossola, the Swiss Alps in the distance, and the canton of Ticino in the foreground, across the border between Italy and Switzerland. A trumpet vine plant with red flowers in full bloom

Federica Grassi

Isola Madre is the largest island of the Borromean Islands, and its Isola Madre Botanical Garden is truly astonishing. It is a treasure trove of plants brought here over the years by order of the naturalist Vitaliano IX. There are peonies, azaleas, verbena, apricots, cherry and other fruit trees and walnut trees near the palazzo. The palazzo itself retains its original interior and, charmingly, includes an antique puppet theater that once held shows outside, as well as original stage sets.

Isola Bella, on the other hand, named after Isabella, Countess Borromeo, has only one small village and an unfinished summer palace where you can see Lombard art and Flemish tapestries. Best of all, the palace is set within breathtaking Italianate gardens with 10 terraces and ornate decorations such as giant unicorns, obelisks, grottoes, and watermills. As if the fairy tale stories weren’t enough, white peacocks flitted through the lush vegetation of camphor trees, citrus trees, roses, rhododendrons, and camellias.

Back on the lake, the dreamy gardens of Villa Taranto in Verbania are home to one of the most important plant collections in the world. Created by expatriate Scots in 1931, the building combines English style with Italian features such as statues, fountains, terraces, and waterfalls. Plants here include eucalypts, azaleas, rhododendrons, magnolias, giant water lilies and rare Tasmanian tree ferns, and the herbarium displays unique works of art made from plants.

Which is better: Lake Como or Lake Maggiore?

Como is home to towering peaks, classic steamboat rides and picturesque resorts such as Menaggio, Varenna and Bellagio, and is often said to be the most beautiful of northern Italy’s lakes. The northern towns of Gravedona and Domaso also have great beaches and offer excellent swimming and water skiing, as well as excellent hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding and even golf.

Borromean Islands, Stresa, Lake Maggiore, Berbano Cusio Ossola, Piedmont, Italy

© Marco Bottigelli//Getty Images

But it’s impossible to choose between the two, and sometimes the best vacation on Lake Maggiore includes a trip to Como, and vice versa, so why choose when you don’t have to choose? One really easy way to combine these is with Good Housekeeping’s tours of Italy’s lake gardens, including the Borromean Islands, Villa Taranto, and Villa Balbianello on Lake Como.

Balbianello is so enchanting; Star Wars: Attack of the Clones and casino royale was filmed at this villa in the village of Lenno, on the tip of the heavily wooded Cape Laved. Built in 1787 on the site of a Franciscan monastery, it stands out with its terraced gardens, enchanting loggia and stunning lake views.

Other great gardens around Como include the lakeside Villa Melzi, Villa Carlotta and Villa Este. You can also enjoy his one-day excursion from Lake Como to Switzerland aboard the iconic Bernina Railway. Another great way to see both Maggiore and Como, along with Lake Lugano and Italian fashion mecca Milan, is on an Italian lakes and gardens holiday.

What are the best towns near Lake Maggiore?

The Borromean Islands are Maggiore’s true glory, but the lake is also dotted with charming waterfront towns with beautiful promenades and Belle Époque palaces that you wouldn’t want to miss, so make sure to spend at least four days here. Spend some time and enjoy its true charm. Make the most of everything it has to offer.

Cannobio of Lake Maggiore seen from the lakeside

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One of the best towns is small Cannobio, on the northwest coast. It has pastel-colored houses, cobbled streets, and a lovely promenade at night. passeggiatasandy beaches and wonderful hikes into the Orido di Sant’Anna valley.

Alternatively, many people holidaying on Lake Maggiore are based in the largest town, Verbania. As well as the Vila Taranto and Borromean ferries, you’ll also find the impressive Villa Giulia with its garden and a number of lovely restaurants with terraces overlooking the lake.

Stresa is also charming, with cobbled streets and architecture dating back to the area’s golden age at the beginning of the 20th century, with Belle Époque villas on the waterfront and a hostel for the wealthy Milanese families who vacationed here. There are mansions built in. Many of the town’s beautiful buildings are now hotels and are once again home to excellent restaurants serving fresh lake fish.

Next is Luino, east of Maggiore, near the Swiss border. This is a street market that dates back to 1535 and is best visited on Wednesdays. There are over 350 stalls selling local food as well as retro and vintage utensils and even antiques. It’s really special to take it home.

How to vacation on Lake Maggiore in 2024

There are many ways to explore Lake Maggiore this year. These include expertly guided tours with Gardener’s World presenter Carol Klein. This tour includes visits to the gardens of the villas of Isola Bella, Isola Madre, Isola Pescatori, Taranto, Pallavicino, Carlotta and Balbianello.

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Alternatively, take a flight-free tour of Italy’s lakes and Switzerland with Eurostar, giving you the chance to explore Maggiore, Como and Orta in one trip.

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And with Good Housekeeping’s best-selling Italian Lakes Tour, you’ll enjoy eight days discovering the charms of Maggiore, Como, Lugano, Orta, and the stylish city of Milan.

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