From the Duomo’s intricate Renaissance spire to the soaring glass and iron roof of Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II to the high-end fashion boutiques on every corner, everything about Milan evokes glitz and glamor, history and style. . Italy’s second city is a place where you can see and be seen.
But tonight, for my first dinner in town, I had no idea exactly where I was for a second. I’m staying at the Radisson Collection Palazzo Touring Club. This new hotel is a former office of an Italian luxury hotel converted into his CAA. In this historic building in the center of town, I wandered into what was supposed to be a small bistro. Or is it?
I have a lot of travel supplies around me: guides, globes, maps, puzzles, etc. In addition to serving as a bookstore, this space also functions as a travel agency. And the tables are tightly arranged around a small bar with no boundaries. I think it’s a bistro. Immediately, I’m seated and stuffed into a bone-in veal Milanese, served here in the traditional manner. This is a famous dish of this city.
It’s a flavor that I notice right away. In a city known for its flash, Milan still keeps some treasures understated. For example, the veal was beautiful and tender and one of the best I’ve eaten.
On this first night, after dinner, over limoncello and espresso, a local acquaintance joined our small group of travelers. “What do you want?” he asked in a staccato accent. Our wishlist includes unmissable spots such as the Fondazione Prada Art Center, as well as quirky locations that mark the true heart of the city.
For the latter, a Milanese friend provided us with too many ideas for our time. Start at the Villa Necchi Campiglio Museum. I think we must be in the wrong place when the Uber drops us off in a quiet residential area. But once you pass the nondescript gate, you’re enveloped by a secret garden of sycamores, magnolias and beech trees, with ivy and hydrangeas lining the paths.
Inside it’s even better. Walking through the front door feels like stepping out of a time machine and stepping into a very stylish past. This villa was completed in 1935 for his wealthy businessman family. Despite Tilda Swinton’s I Am Love background and House of Gucci cameo, this house still feels like home. The family just left yesterday. “This is one of the most beautiful places in Milan,” our guide told us. “Everything is a masterpiece in its own right.”
In some cases, quite literally. As you ascend to the second floor, you’ll find a small gallery on the wall in the space separating the modest bedroom and bathroom. It contains a series of sketches, seven of which were painted by Picasso, and three more by Matisse. All genuine originals.
There are many more surprises to discover in the city. On the top floor of what was once a bleak insurance office and now a hotel, there is a stylish bar called Issei Rooftop, which specializes in Nikkei flavors (Japanese-Peruvian fusion) and serves small plates. They offer dishes, share menus such as seaweed tacos, and cocktails using sake. The ambiance is speakeasy-inspired, and the menu was whimsically illustrated by a friend of the lead bar saxalogist.
Issei Rooftop is a Japanese cocktail bar on the top floor of what was once a bleak insurance office and is now a Radisson hotel.
But what was the most memorable meal of the trip? It takes place at the grocery store. A Brazilian travel friend insists on visiting Peck, a local favorite filled with all things beautiful about Italian cuisine. Amid the throng of other shoppers, she video-called her husband in Sao Paulo, hired her staff as personal assistants, and bought huge quantities of sausages, cheese and other groceries.
As I wandered around, I found a square sanctuary lined with tables, shielded from the busy walkways and exhibits. A calm island. A small, unpretentious but classy restaurant. The one-page menu includes salads, seafood, charcuterie, and a variety of hot pastas.
I came back on a quiet day, Monday, and still had to wait 30 minutes to get a table. Around me, Milanese people are leisurely enjoying their lunch break. I pair it with a glass of Chianti and bite into a steaming plate of Ravioli de Carne al Pomodoro.
The cash register keeps beeping, the butcher cutting meat just to my right, and the cheese guy cutting wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano right behind me. Supermarket meal. Simple and perfect, befitting a star city like Milan.
Accommodations were provided to Tim Johnson by Radisson Collection, which has not reviewed or approved this article.