“Get the branzino,” my server says confidently. “It was our favorite of the preview tastings.”
I had my eye on the Cappellacci ragu di coda, dumplings stuffed with oxtail and wrapped in a hearty ragu. However, there aren’t many places that serve roasted sea bass, let alone serve it repeatedly. So when I was in Rome… I thought (sorry, I couldn’t help it). I was not disappointed. Flavored with lemon and garlic and cooked to perfection, this dish was the highlight of the meal, paired with roasted carrots and broccoli and washed down with chilled Peroni.
It was the night of the soft opening of Roman Wolves, a Roman-inspired restaurant by restaurateur Nino Cusimano. The restaurant officially opened today in the Broadstone Building at 1980 Kettner Boulevard. Mr. Cusimano, who also runs Rusticucina in Hillcrest, serves traditional Roman pastas such as carbonara, cacio e pepe and all’amatriciana, bringing Rome’s cultural and culinary heritage to Little Italy’s fine dining scene. He says he wants to bring it to the world. Chef Enrico De Santis incorporates traditional ingredients like artichokes, lamb, and oxtail throughout the menu, including pinsa (Roman-style folded pizza), a wide range of wines and beers, spritzes, negronis, and romans. Also included are the latest Italian cocktails, such as the Inspired Arrangement. Traditional.
“If you have ever traveled to Rome or have Rome on your bucket list, you will be transported to the menu and atmosphere at Roman Wolves,” Cusimano promises. “It’s authentic, but our chefs put their own spin on every dish. We also have some unique menu items you won’t find anywhere else, like the pinsa.”
I had never heard of pinsa, but the clerk described it as something lighter and airier than the chewy, dense Neapolitan-style dough. “Think of it like layering the toppings on top of a pie crust, folding it in half, slicing it, and sharing it,” she explained.
My dining companion and I opted for pinsa margherita to lighten the start of a long meal. In hindsight, I wish I had tried the pinsa la mortazza with mortadella, ricotta and pistachio. The margherita was certainly light, but it could have been seasoned more strongly and added a little more balsamic. But at least it was a first for me and turned out to be a fun exploration of Roman cuisine.
Cassandra Builer of Huntress Decor oversaw the interior of Roman Wolves. The bar seats 20 guests, the main dining room seats 60 guests, the outdoor patio seats 25 guests, and the private dining room accommodates up to 30 guests. Frills and colorful light fixtures hang above gilded marble tables, surrounded by well-worn brick and plaster replicas of ancient Roman streets. Local artist Kristen Morgan painted a wall-to-wall mural of Rome’s famous Trevi Fountain, and a long burnt orange couch stretched out by the dining room window, with velvety waves billowing through the space. . The design is eclectic and I love the gothic black taper on each table.
Business hours are Monday through Thursday, 4pm to 10pm. Friday, 4pm to midnight. Saturday, noon to midnight. Happy Hour is held from 4:00 PM to 6:00 PM on weekdays and from 3:00 PM to 6:00 PM on weekends.
San Diego Restaurant News and Gourmet Events
Marisi hosts dinner for James Beard’s friends
The James Beard Foundation, a New York-based nonprofit dedicated to uplifting America’s food community, will be coming to the Friends of James Beard Dinner on March 20th at Marisi. The foundation’s awards recognize chefs, hospitality, media and more, and are perhaps the most decorated. Winner of prestigious global food awards, this is the first Friends Dinner to be held in San Diego since 2013. The five-course meal, helmed by Marisi’s Executive Chef Cameron Ingle, features local, seasonal dishes with wine and cocktail pairings. Tickets are $350 (reservation required).
Beth’s Bites
San Diego’s first non-alcoholic bar is coming to San Diego. Good News, a female-owned, LGBT-friendly space, has not yet announced locations or dates, but we’ll keep an eye out for future announcements and share them here.
Happy 8th birthday, Holly Matcha! On Saturday, March 9th, San Diego’s first matcha cafe will be celebrating with yet-to-be-announced specials and treats. Whatever they are, they’re sure to be cute (and probably millennial pink).
There is no way to fill the small hole that Bagby Beer Company leaves in Oceanside. (I even named them one of the best breweries of 2023. Please pray for me during this difficult time.) Fortunately, Orange County-based Green Cheek Beer What we are planning is not “goodbye” but “see you again.” The vast space will be renovated and reopened in early March. Former owner and brewer Jeff Bagbee will remain on staff, so it appears to be more of a transition than his departure. Good news for thirsty beer fans!