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The European Alps are…magnificent!
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I just returned from an amazing trip to Italy, France and Switzerland. The Alps have it all: great skiing, breathtaking views, great food, quaint villages, and some of the nicest people you’ll meet anywhere in the world.
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There are so many great things I want to write about, so I’ll start with Megève and Courmayeur, and next week I’ll write about Chamonix-Mont-Blanc and Crans-Montana.
The first thing I thought when I arrived in Megève was that this is a beautiful ski town with all the European feel and quaint character you’d imagine. The first thing you’ll notice is that there are a lot of really cool outdoor cafes with cozy furtoss to keep you warm during your après or meal. The streets are lined with many high-end shops, and horse-drawn carriage tours of the village are popular. The giant Christmas tree in the town square is the perfect meeting point for a ski day, restaurant hopping, or just strolling through this historic village. The Village has a variety of accommodations to suit every budget, all within walking distance of the main elevators. We enjoyed the convenience and comfort of the Novotel overlooking the mountains, along with an excellent breakfast menu.
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When it comes to skiing, Megève is vast and one of Europe’s largest ski areas, with 400km of slopes called Espace Mont Blanc, including the gorgeous Chamonix ski mountain. Again, European ski resorts are vast, so we always recommend having a guide or ski instructor with you on your first day.
The great thing about many European village resorts, including Megève, is that you can walk to the elevator. Sling your skis over your shoulder and stroll to the gondola with your boots on. Some hotels offer shuttle services, but European skiers generally wear ski boots and walk to the gondola even after skiing. Walking to the gondola is a great way to warm up and prepare for a great day of skiing or boarding.
The next morning I woke up to a great bluebird day with a foot of fresh powder and sunshine and thought it couldn’t have been a better day. We started by taking the Chamois gondola from a village in the Mont Arbois district, then took the very cool tram Rocharbois across the mountain to the start point and took the chairlift in the Mont Arbois district. The first thing you see when you step off the tram is a vast trail of incredible size and variety that stretches for miles over mountains. The trails are challenging, but fair for red (green) or blue skiers, and on another level for blacks, but also fun. We really enjoyed our mornings in Mont d’Arbois, Rochebrune, Côte 2000, L’Arpette, Montjou and Choix. There are plenty of trails and chairs for beginners, so don’t let the size scare you.
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It was so much fun that I almost forgot about lunch, but I’m glad I didn’t. For a unique lunch, ski off the Mont d’Arbois Chair and head to l’Deal Restaurant, a Four Seasons-owned mountainside restaurant overlooking majestic Mont Blanc. We enjoyed a flavorful soup with carrots and spices, followed by a perfectly cooked truffle pizza.
If you want to take a break from skiing, Megève is also home to a huge sports center, the sports/cultural complex Tour vie Barneo (Le Palais Megève). There’s an Olympic-sized indoor skating rink, a curling pad, rock climbing, a huge pool with a workout room, and a sauna. more.
For dinner, we highly recommend Chacha, a very lively dinner/dance restaurant with an electric atmosphere in the center of town. The music was unforgettable, the live band was even better and people were dancing in the aisles and on the tables. It was a night owl for everyone. For breakfast the next day, we enjoyed eggs Benedict and a delicious pastry board at the 5-star Grand Hôtel Soleil d’Or, where the master chocolatier will make your day wonderful.
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I left Megève thinking that this was a big ski resort with an unforgettable European flavor.
Next destination, Italy
Our next stop was Italy, where we arrived in Courmayeur after just an hour’s drive through the mountains. What completely surprised me about this part of the Alps is that there are so many famous ski resorts from different countries just an hour or two away. One road sign lists his route in four countries.
My day started with one of the coolest streetcar rides I’ve ever experienced, another great bluebird morning, and jaw-dropping views. Skyway Montebianco, which means “road to the top of Italy”, is a giant bubble gondola that rotates 360 degrees, offering stunning views of valleys, mountains and the ever-soaring Mont Blanc. Although this ride is very safe, it is not for the faint of heart as he climbs up the Monbianco to a height of 3,466 meters. At the halfway point, there was a vast sundeck filled with people watching extreme skiers and kites fly high above the trees. To enjoy the Marche from a creative and different perspective, we recommend having lunch at the buffet He Alpino.
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Going down the mountain was just as exciting as going up, but it was time to go to our next destination and check into our hotel. Hotel Walser has been a family-run hotel for decades, offering comfort, value and a great dinner. As soon as you walk in the front door, you’ll see all of our award-winning cowbells lined up in the front area. This is Europe, and I love it. The chalet-style hotel is a short walk to the small town of Courmayeur, where another Christmas tree is the centerpiece of the square. Just before dinner, we strolled around this very European town and stopped at one of the coolest little bars named GOU for a pre-dinner drink. The town has great shopping and lots of nice little restaurants.
In addition to our skiing schedule, we also had reservations to visit a famous goat farm high up in a nearby mountain. The Millerys’ family farm, Società Agricola Mont Blanc, is run by their daughter with 90 goats and her 10 newborn babies. This is also a retail store and I was looking forward to taking home the vacuum-packed aged goat cheese along with their favorite aperitif, and now mine, a bottle of Abricotine.
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As the saying goes, “When you come to Italy,” start at Ristorante Vieux on the slopes where Pappardelle Bolognese is located, and then have dinner at Ristorante La Padella near the hotel for penne alla vodka every day and night. I also ate pasta. We enjoyed a delicious lunch on the mountain at Ristorantel Vieux Grenier and then dinner again with spaghetti he bolognese at the family-run Ristorantel Vieux Pomiere.
Recommendations from the editorial department
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Additional attractions that the Eastern Townships has to offer include Mont Orford and Owl’s Head.
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Bromont and Mont Sutton offer world-class skiing and everything you need for an unforgettable holiday
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Head west and experience the high life at Kicking Horse and Golden.
When it comes to skiing, Courmayeur is located in the famous Aosta Valley, known for its intense sunshine and spectacular snowfall. Once again in the village he can ride the main gondola named Dolonne. Courmayeur is said to be one of the smaller resorts, but I didn’t feel that way at all. The variety and challenge of the trails remains great. To be honest, I don’t really care about the number of trails because I won’t see half of them anyway. You might find a mountain you like and stay there all day, but in the Alps, don’t be afraid to experience other mountains as long as you know where you’re going. You won’t see long lines and the quality of skiing will be matched by the amount of skiing. Enjoy plenty of powder off the slopes, tree skiing, and a wide variety of long intermediate trails. I enjoyed running Aretu and Sherkroy. Powder hounds love Courmayeur for its abundance of options and some challenging off-piste trails.
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The city itself has a sophisticated yet relaxed feel, with a European feel and plenty of upscale shops and restaurants. It is also known for its exciting after-parties, grand social gatherings with Europe’s rich and famous. Courmayeur is another resort that reflects the best of Alpine ambiance and luxury. When people ask me what’s the difference between European and North American skiing, I’m never disappointed. To sum it up in one sentence, in North America we live to work, but in Europe they work to live.
Please give the Alps a try. You’ll love it!
snow notebook
Michael Ney’s famous 6th annual Blue Mountain 24 Hours event is just around the corner on February 24th. There is still time to register for the corporate team. Michael’s efforts have so far raised approximately $500,000, which will be donated to Special Olympics Ontario and the Collingwood General and Marine Hospital Foundation. congratulations. (24hrbluemtn.ca)
Glenn Kreuter, who is also an ambassador for the Canadian Ski Council, can also be heard on the weekend ski report on 640 Toronto.
Check out our sports section for the latest news and analysis.
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