I think Luca Mariano has found a creative way to set his own trajectory. Presented at a sports stadium on the outskirts of town, his collection didn’t shy away from the classic DNA of Italian menswear. In fact, several Giorgio Armani looks were on his mood board (both his and Todd Snyder’s!). But Luca has unleashed Armani’s codes of relaxed elegance with his own vision. As he explained backstage, his clothes were “a gentle disruption of classic shapes.” (This interview came after some kind of manhunt for this man who usually hides from the press and gives the same praise after the show. He was very excited, talking at full speed, Roll R for a mile. Our small group finally managed to ambush him on his way out for a smoke.)
This sabotage was clearly felt in soft flaxen blazers twisted over sweatpants and fluid trousers, often in shirts, cardigans, and vests sticking out from under the hem. The ersatz crop sweatshirt is fitted with a formal brooch, similar to the vibe of a stately jacket, but once again drawing attention to the midsection. This was by design, Luka explained, gesturing to her Marlboro like a professor at her blackboard. “What’s wrong with clothes? What’s happening is that they become fluid. What’s happening is that they’re dismantled. That they’re frivolous and treat the body in strange ways. A jacket is no longer a jacket; It becomes something else, something fluid and fluffy that stays in a certain shape around the waist. Why? Because that’s how we evoke eros. It feels somehow erotic. Clothes are attached to the body. Because it’s something to do with. And we love the idea of the body.” Armani may be romantic, but Mariano takes it even further.
Another great idea from Luka was to actually reach out to the old guard and use their resources to step up the game. His two beautiful, crisp, white and black suits were created in collaboration with Keaton artisans. “Keaton is the best at making tailored pieces in Italy,” Luca said. So the designer reached out. “Of course, it was strange to start the conversation because it would be like our words were somehow allergic,” he said. “And yet they wanted to do it. And of course, when you do something like that, it’s not just about making something, it’s starting a cultural conversation.” The suit is Mariano’s first A completely handmade piece, the process left a strong impression on Luca and his team. Before heading out for a smoke, he explained that his “workshop” with Keaton had influenced “what we envision for the future.” Something that might take Mariano to the next level. “It’s a mission. We’re kind of intrigued by the idea of selling something better and more expensive with less. We’re in Italy, so we can do that.”
Mariano points out the attractive prospects of the Italian fashion industry. It means a new generation can make their mark on global menswear by drawing on their country’s elite resources and rich history. Minutes before the show began, Milan-based photographer Mr. Bozzi (who had a front-row seat during Milan’s previous streetwear boom) offered his opinion. “That wave has passed,” he said. But new energy will come. Maybe in a year, two, three years, some kids will understand what Mariano is doing…” he trailed off, and the show began.