“Are we a city or a town?” If you’re from Kilkenny, you can only describe this place as a city. Kilkenny was even the capital of Ireland in the 1600s. We always punch above our weight! ”
says Nevin Cody of the award-winning Shenanigans Walks. Given Kilkenny’s past success in the trade, it’s no wonder the locals know how to market themselves. The marble that gives this southeastern destination its name is actually highly polished limestone.
Although the city’s status has changed over the years, Kilkenny’s beauty remains the same. Surrounded by the River Nore and now lined with trendy cafes, bars and independent shops, this city is undoubtedly one of the brightest jewels in Ireland’s crown. Due to its proximity to Dublin, it’s also a tourist haven, as evidenced by the crowds lining the streets.
Nevin, who brings his love of magic into his tours, guides me along the Medieval Mile, a route bordered by castles named after Kilkenny’s namesake saint and St. Canice’s Cathedral. He will do it for you. outside the stone-covered courthouse and Keitler’s Inn (the maid Petronilla de Meath was the first person in Ireland to be burned at the stake). Skillfully perform your own magic tricks with the help of books, balloons and ropes.
St. Canis Cathedral.
In doing so, he uncovers the interesting etymology behind famous phrases such as “stinking rich” and “upper crust”, and discovers the story of two legends that gave the people of Kilkenny the nickname “Cats”. It’s not about bringing a bygone era to life by illustrating fighting felines. .
take me to church
To learn more about the perplexity of Kilkenny’s wealth, Nevin passes the baton, or in the magician’s case, the “wand,” to another local tour guide, James Sharman, at St. Canis, Ireland’s second-longest cathedral. I’ll give it to you.
This Church of Ireland building dates back to the 13th century, but Christian worship has been held here since the 6th century. This 100-foot-tall circular tower is the only one of his two towers in the country that can still be climbed, and has overseen the area for 1,200 years.
St. Canis Cathedral.
Among the cathedral’s notable features, James said St. Canis Cathedral claims the most extensive collection of funerary monuments in the country, a 3,000-pipe organ, and a 19th-century Canadian redwood ceiling. I mentioned that there is. One of his stained glass windows, Alfred Ernest Child’s Nativity scene, is also featured on an Irish stamp.
“We are the only cathedral in the world with two thrones,” he adds proudly, explaining that St. Kieran’s chair, which was moved here from Agaboe Abbey in 1111, was no longer fit for purpose and a replacement I explained why it was added. Due to the historical importance of this ancient chair, it was never consecrated, earning the cathedral this prestigious honor.
A man’s home is his castle
Kilkenny Castle may not have had a throne, but from 1391 to 1935 it was home to an influential family, the Butlers of Ormonde. Few buildings on the island claim a longer history of continuous occupation.
“Castles don’t make great homes,” says guide John Kelly. “Unlike palaces, they were not built for comfort, and were better served as defensive facilities, prisons, or administrative facilities. But the Butlers did it!”
Kilkenny Castle and Gardens.
This castle was founded after the Norman invasion in the 12th century. Famous figures associated with this castle in the early days include Strongbow and his son-in-law William his Marshal. Over the next 800 years, the castle’s shape changed. A notable change is the disappearance of the south wall and tower. Its current appearance is essentially a Victorian modification.
Among the residents who call Kilkenny Castle home is Lady Margaret Butler, grandmother of Anne Boleyn, the ill-fated wife of England’s King Henry VIII. After his family left the castle in the 20th century, it sat abandoned for 30 years, until the government finally bought it for him in 1967 for just £50.
There’s much to admire here, including a Moorish staircase, a beautifully recreated library, and a temporary Ross tapestry display, but the picture gallery really has the ‘wow factor’, with a style reminiscent of the castle’s barony. John says. The ceiling, an echo of St. Canice’s Cathedral, recalls an upturned Viking ship, while the main themes of this period – nature and folklore – are evident throughout.
“To be forgotten is to die twice.”
Ireland’s darkest days will be keenly remembered at our next stop. In 2005, more than 976 human remains were discovered during construction of the McDonagh Junction Shopping Center on the site of a former famine workhouse.
“This is the largest mass grave ever excavated in Ireland and has sparked extensive osteological research,” the center’s manager, Marion Acreman, told me. “Our challenge at the time was how commercial spaces could coexist with this devastating history. So we created a free audiovisual trail documenting the stories of prisoners who lived and died within its walls. We have created the Kilkenny Famine Experience.
She quotes French philosopher Paul Ricoeur: “To be forgotten is to die twice,” which is poignantly woven throughout the trail.
As you walk through the grounds, listen to the heartbreaking stories of our ancestors. They were weak and hurt, unable to sleep due to the cries of their parents and children, separated into separate wings and longing to be reunited.
These vivid memories are in stark contrast to the scene around me today: families filled with Christmas cheer, shopping and enjoying lunch. It emphasizes the importance of this trail. It not only commemorates the past, but also reminds us of our many blessings today.
Outside, in the Famine Memorial Garden, there are beautiful statues symbolizing hope and new beginnings, commemorating John and Patrick Saul, two young brothers who took refuge in the workhouse in 1841.
Marion will discuss other projects the center has developed in collaboration with the community.
“We invited 976 people to each learn about one of the 976 victims. Their signatures and fingerprints were then engraved on brass in the memorial garden.
“We also took in the descendants of 59 orphan girls who left for Australia from Kilkenny under the Earl Gray Plan. It was a moving experience for everyone.”
wet the flute
On my way to my next destination, I browsed the exhibits at the wonderful Butler Gallery. The Butler Gallery is a former barracks that was developed into servants’ housing in 1818, thanks to Joseph Evan, a descendant of British soldiers.
Butler Gallery.
Today, it is one of the country’s premier contemporary art galleries and museums. Marvel at the diverse range of exhibits by famous Irish artists such as Paul Henry, Louis Le Brocqui, Maynie Gerrett, Patrick Scott and Evie Horne.
Returning to Medieval Mile, we found the Smithwick Experience, located directly across from Roath House, a stunning 16th century merchant’s townhouse. Here, the story of the world’s most popular ale comes to life in a former brewery.
The origins of this red liquor date back to the 13th century Franciscan monks who lived in the adjoining monastery, but the iconic brand was born after John Smithwick partnered with Richard Cole. The year was 1710.
Now brewed in Dublin, this tour, which includes demonstrations and tastings, expertly brings its storied history to life. Along with insight into his family and the brewing process, we also learn about the strict criminal laws that threatened to thwart John’s Catholic ambitions.
“We welcome visitors who are Smithwick fans as well as those who have never heard of Smithwick,” says guide Joe Reed. “Regardless of their relationship with the brand, they love the interactive element here because it gives them a chance to stir, grind and smell the ingredients.”
bird of a feather
A place that has all the right ingredients is my accommodation, Lyrus Estate. The building was built in the 17th century and has modern extensions and is well maintained.
“This hotel is the perfect blend of old and new,” manager Susan Lanigan says of the five-star hotel, which opened in 2006. And somehow it manages to be both expansive and intimate at the same time. “Our guests always mention the atmosphere, and I know exactly what they mean. I love working here.”
Lyrus Estate.
Among the guests Susan mentions are three restaurants: Tupper’s Bar, You Fine Dining Restaurant, and my favorite, the Grill and Bar, as well as international tour groups who praise the warm staff’s welcome. I devoured a tomahawk steak there, above the reception area, during my stay.
It’s no wonder that Lyrus Estate’s 141 bedrooms are always in demand by guests drawn to the property’s eclectic and elegant décor. Although the hotel is just minutes from Kilkenny, Susan says the surrounding 170 acres of lush parkland makes guests feel “far removed from the hustle and bustle”.
In addition to the restaurant and multi-award-winning spa, which Susan describes as a “sanctuary of tranquility,” another selling point of the hotel is the on-site Hawkeye Falconry Ireland. The recently opened school offers guests the unique opportunity to fly, handle and feed trained hawks and owls.
“Some of our guests were scared before they tried it, but within seconds they were converted,” says Susan.
I am also one of them. After signing up for a lesson, which was also my last activity in Kilkenny, I was wearing my finest tweed and Wellington boots, and a feeling of anxiety set in. Owners John and Caroline Duggan immediately put my fears to rest.
“Since prehistoric times, our ancestors have been flying birds of prey,” John, from neighboring Waterford County, told me. “It is often said to be the noblest of all field sports.”
He also revealed that falconry is currently practiced in more than 60 countries, with UNESCO listing it as an intangible cultural heritage in 14 of them, including Ireland.
As a child, John developed a passion for falconry by reading medieval history. He then successfully petitioned his parents to adopt the rehabilitated falcon. Through John, Caroline developed a similar love of birds. Overcoming a life-threatening illness enabled the two to turn this passion into a career.
“I feel like the luckiest man in the world to be able to be around these amazing animals every day,” John freely admits, and his dedication to animals is one of the best in the world. This is clear from the fact that they communicate with each other.
I can’t overstate how humble and emotional I feel when Turbo, an orange-eyed owl, and Holly, a Harris’s hawk, perch on my gloved hand for a morsel of food. There is no such thing as too much if.
“Holly loves being with you, but she also loves hunting,” John explains. That’s a fact proven as we wandered through a nearby field and she scouted her surroundings for prey, including dandelions. Apparently that kind of thing fascinates her!
“Falconry is very therapeutic,” John correctly states. “Not only is there a unique connection to nature, but having these game animals in such close proximity is incredibly powerful.”
Caroline added: “A 90-year-old man visited here recently. He thought he was too old to learn new things, but this experience gave new life to his life. He said he gave it to me.”
And I can’t think of anything more supportive of falconry.
For more information, visit kilkkenny.ie.