Friday, November 15, 2024

The complete guide – The Irish Times

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Two-star restaurants

Terre Manor House, Castlemartyr Resort, Castlemartyr, Co Cork P25 X300

The Michelin Guide says: “In the Manor House of this breathtaking resort, you’ll be warmly welcomed by the kitchen team before enjoying a procession of original and elaborate snacks which more than hint at the quality of the surprise menu in store. The striking and sophisticated dishes showcase the best of the local larder alongside more international flavours which highlight the chef’s time and travels in Asia; the sauces are superlative. Dishes are often finished off at your table in the elegant diningroom. This is an experience to remember.” terre.ie

Dede Customs House, Baltimore, Co Cork P81 K291

The Michelin Guide says: “Chef Ahmet Dede’s Turkish heritage underpins his beautifully composed and exquisite cuisine. Skilful, judicious spicing hits all the right notes so never comes close to overpowering the fine local ingredients; purity and balance are never at the expense of flavour. The whole brigade of nine in the kitchen are all from Turkey, and Ahmet’s personality imbues every creative yet authentic dish. The room is always alive with atmosphere and contentment, with service coming from charming co-owner Maria and her delightful team.” customshousebaltimore.com

Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen 18-19 Parnell Square North, Dublin 1

The Michelin Guide says: “Mickael Viljanen’s basement restaurant is a stylish, elegant spot decorated with eye-catching art. Superb service complements cooking that focuses on prime luxury ingredients and sees classic French techniques combined with subtle modern touches. Mickael’s creativity and personality shine through in perfectly balanced, immaculately executed dishes with sublime natural flavours and beautiful presentation. The ‘Irish Coffee’ is made in the diningroom and is, like everything else, an experience to remember.” chapteronerestaurant.com

Liath Blackrock Market, 19a Main Street, Blackrock, Co Dublin

The Michelin Guide says: “There’s a slightly magical feel to this stylish, cosy restaurant. With just a handful of tables, it makes for a personal dining experience, with Damien Grey and his small team explaining the dishes personally. The surprise tasting menu showcases bold, original dishes centred around the five tastes – salty, savoury, sweet, bitter and sour – which come together in perfect harmony. First-class ingredients are present throughout, treated with precision and strong modern technique by the chefs. Excellent wine pairings further enhance the experience.” liathrestaurant.com

Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud 21 Upper Merrion Street, Dublin 2

The Michelin Guide says: “This iconic restaurant has been thriving since 1981, thanks to both the eponymous chef and the exceptional team he has around him. It sits hidden away within a Georgian town house and oozes sumptuousness and sophistication thanks to features such as a gilt barrel ceiling and handcrafted marquetry. The accomplished cooking isn’t to be upstaged, however: it is French at heart yet has a restrained modernity and showcases some bold yet superbly balanced flavours. The Irish ingredients are certainly luxurious, and both the wine cellar and the wine list are works of art..” restaurantpatrickguilbaud.ie

One-star restaurants

D’Olier Street D’Olier Chambers, D’Olier Street, Dublin city, D02 H589

The Michelin Guide says:The high ceilings and original plasterwork of this restored landmark building contribute to the appeal of the contemporary restaurant within. The well-travelled, Australian-born chef prepares a surprise menu and, while the techniques and influences might be global, the focus of the dishes remains firmly on the main ingredient – as with the prime quality, expertly seasoned cod with basil, girolles and chicken. There are seats at the counter for those wanting to see how the beautifully composed dishes are created, and the wine pairings are a great way to go.” dolierstreetrestaurant.com

The Bishop’s Buttery Cashel Palace Hotel, Main Street, Cashel, Co Tipperary, E25 EF61

The Michelin Guide says: “A vaulted ceiling and flagstone floors combine with sumptuous, colourful furnishings at this striking restaurant that provides a fair amount of both character and luxury. It helps, of course, that it’s located in the cellars of Cashel Palace, a magnificent Palladian manor house which was once home to the Archbishops of Cashel. Desserts are a highlight among cooking that keeps a focus on each central ingredient, which is then skilfully enhanced with complementary flavours. Service comes from an impeccable team, who work with the utmost pride.” www.cashelpalacehotel.ie

Homestead Cottage Luogh North, Doolin, Co Clare, V95 KH30

Michelin Guide says:A charming 200 year old cottage houses this rural restaurant that counts the Atlantic Ocean as its neighbour. The lovely terrace allows you to enjoy a spectacular sunset over drinks, before moving inside to the characterful interior with stone floors, cookery books and rustic wooden tables. Wonderful Irish produce is used in equally impressive dishes that are clean and modern, with no unnecessary frills. Dinner is a seven-course tasting menu that flows beautifully, while lunch is a lighter, simpler affair with a daily-changing menu.” www.homesteadcottagedoolin.com

Aniar 53 Lower Dominick Street, Galway

The Michelin Guide says: “Both the decor and the cooking at this stylish, laid-back restaurant follow a ‘back-to-nature’ ethos. Aniar means ‘From the West’ and the majority of the ingredients come from around Galway, with the micro-seasonal menus finalised based on the day’s produce. The cooking cleverly blends traditional and modern techniques, while contrasts in texture, temperature and acidity are also a feature. With just two or three components, the delicate, well-balanced dishes have a certain purity to them; many are served by the chefs themselves, some with accompanying poems.” aniarrestaurant.ie

Bastible 111 South Circular Road, Dublin 8

The Michelin Guide says: “This vibrant little restaurant with a lively spirit boasts an open kitchen, from which you’ll find the chefs engaging with guests and delivering some of the dishes themselves. The modern set menu features top class Irish ingredients at the height of season and each main ingredient is given the space to shine. Dishes are stripped-back, flavours are bold, and servings are generous: this is cooking that comes from the heart. Start with an aperitif while you enjoy the delicate snacks – and look forward to dessert, which is always a highlight.” bastible.com

Bastion Main Street, Kinsale, Co Cork

The Michelin Guide says: “Set in the very centre of town, Bastion is a contemporary restaurant owned and run by a talented couple: Paul McDonald cooks, while his wife Helen looks after the service. A large bar splits the room in two and twinkling candles add a welcoming touch. Paul is Scottish born but his cooking has a strong Irish base. Natural flavours are kept to the fore and local seafood is a highlight. The skilfully prepared, exacting dishes take on a modern style and often exhibit a playful, innovative element, while at the same time showing depth in their flavours and textures.” bastionkinsale.com

Campagne 5 The Arches, Gashouse Lane, Kilkenny

The Michelin Guide says: “This long-standing restaurant is owned and run by experienced chef Garrett Byrne – who really knows his craft – along with his partner, Brid Hannon, who provides relaxed, friendly service. The modern interior is sleek, with curved banquettes, spot-lit dark wood tables and striking local artwork hanging on the walls. Top quality Irish ingredients are showcased in richly flavoured, classic dishes: you won’t find foams or smears on your plate here – just confidently cooked, skilfully balanced dishes, with exemplary plating, saucing and seasoning.” campagne.ie

Restaurant Chestnut Staball Hill, Ballydehob, Co Cork

The Michelin Guide says: “There’s a laid-back feel to this sweet, intimate restaurant where the shelves are laden with wine, mead and all manner of jars full of produce marinating, curing or fermenting. Skeaghanore duck is among the County Cork produce championed on the constantly evolving tasting menu, where skilfully prepared dishes show a great understanding of textures and tastes, and are pleasingly understated in their pure, natural flavours. Smaller growers are present in the wine pairings, while they make their own juices and cordials for the non-alcoholic option.” restaurantchestnutwestcork.ie

Glover’s Alley 127-128 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2

The Michelin Guide says: “Set in a prime spot on the second floor of The Fitzwilliam Hotel, overlooking St Stephen’s Green, is this chic, elegant restaurant with subtle 1930s overtones. Pink and green hues and pretty flower arrangements bring a certain softness to the surroundings; in contrast, Andy McFadden’s cooking is characterised by boldness – both in its flavours and textures – and his experience shines through in creative, modern dishes which are skilfully prepared and artfully presented.” gloversalley.com

House Cliff House Hotel, Middle Road, Ardmore, Co Waterford

The Michelin Guide says: “The first challenge for a chef working in this cliff-side restaurant is for their food to be good enough to compete with the striking panorama viewed through the floor-to-ceiling windows. Fortunately, the kitchen, under the leadership of Tony Parkin, is up to the challenge. His experience is clear to see in dishes that may not be showy but do deliver plenty of depth, with well-judged flavours and contrasts in texture being the hallmarks of his food. Expect warm service from the experienced team.” cliffhousehotel.ie

Lady Helen Mount Juliet Estate, Thomastown, Co Kilkenny

The Michelin Guide says: “Set on a 1,500-acre (607-hectare) estate, this impressive country house is one of the best examples of Georgian architecture in Ireland; it still boasts its original stuccowork and hand-carved marble fireplaces, and its well-appointed bedrooms follow the period style. The luxurious restaurant comprises two high-ceilinged rooms which look out over the estate towards the river and come with all the comfort and elegance one would expect from such a historic place. John Kelly’s boldly flavoured, visually impressive dishes are skilfully prepared, and ingredients come from the estate, the county and the coast. Playful desserts make a memorable finish.” mountjuliet.ie

The Muddlers Club 1 Warehouse Lane, Belfast

The Michelin Guide says: “Hidden away in the Cathedral Quarter is this urban, industrial-style restaurant named after a 200-year-old secret society. It’s a simply furnished place, run with palpable enthusiasm by a young team. Chef Gareth McCaughey’s philosophy is to source top ingredients, prepare them well and not overcomplicate things, as proven by the surprise tasting menu spotlighting superb Irish produce like Kilkeel scallops and Wicklow venison. The wine list offers an interesting selection of low-intervention, natural, organic and biodynamic wines, all available by the glass.” themuddlersclubbelfast.com

The Oak Room Adare Manor, Adare, Co Limerick

The Michelin Guide says: “This restaurant inside the impressive Adare Manor has all the grandeur you would expect, with wood-panelled walls, lavish chandeliers and a glass-enclosed terrace with views over the 850-acre (343-hectare) grounds. The assured, refreshingly understated cooking champions top Irish ingredients, with dishes comprising just three or four components and allowing each one the room to make an impression. Combinations are refined and well-balanced, and great attention is given to the finer details. The wine list is a labour of love and offers a superb range by the glass.” adaremanor.com

OX 1 Oxford Street, Belfast

The Michelin Guide says: “Dining at this understated restaurant is such a pleasant experience. You start with an aperitif in the lovely wine cave next door, then it’s through into the main room which always has a great buzz. The starting point for the surprise tasting menus is the ingredients; chef-owner Stephen Toman and his team take great care in selecting – and even growing – the very best. Cooking has a refined, sophisticated style, with a great balance of tastes and textures. The well-matched wines also have a seasonal element, and warm service completes the picture.” oxbelfast.com

Variety Jones 78 Thomas Street, Dublin 8

The Michelin Guide says: “You’ll find charming chef-owner Keelan Higgs working calmly in the open kitchen of this tiny restaurant. The long, narrow room has a funky style and the relaxed atmosphere is helped along by brother Aaron and the laid-back service team. Highly original yet unfussy dishes burst with freshness and flavour, and many are cooked over the open fire; Keelan loves this concept, as no two dishes will ever be exactly the same. The six-course ‘Chef’s Choice’ menu is divided into Snacks, Cold, Warm, Pasta, Mains and Finish, and the monthly changing, mostly organic wine list is passionately compiled.” varietyjones.ie

Wild Honey Inn Kincora Road, Lisdoonvarna, Co Clare

The Michelin Guide says: “This personally run inn set in the heart of The Burren started life as an 1860s hotel serving those visiting the town’s spas. For this reason, it doesn’t look much like a pub but, once inside, it’s warm, cosy and full of pubby character. The menu reflects the locale and the seasons, doing away with fripperies to highlight quality produce like crab and lobster Royale or succulent rump of lamb. The sauces in particular are a showcase for excellent seasoning and depth of flavour, and the sticky toffee pudding is a must. Delightful bedrooms complete the picture.” wildhoneyinn.com



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